Manaslu Larke pass with Tsum Valley Trek

In the first day,  we set out on a 160 km journey east of Kathmandu. Our route takes us past the Trishuli River. We stop for lunch at Jyamire after a few hours. The path to Machha Khola has some paved and unpaved parts, about 30% is not paved.

We resume driving after lunch. Our drive takes about seven hours. We go through villages and cross Arughat, Soti Khola, before we get to Machha Khola.

As we follow the Kali Gandaki Gorge towards Khorlabesi, get ready for another exciting mountain day. Before continuing our journey, we arrive at Tatopani, a natural hot spring, which is the ideal place to unwind.

After that, we travel uphill to Dobhan Ridge, where we traverse an exhilarating suspension bridge. We might catch a glimpse of Langur monkeys in the nearby forests as we climb to Tharo Bharyang. The day’s journey comes to an end with a quick stroll to Jagat.

Now stepping into Manaslu’s restricted zone, we handle all required forms first. Hiking onward, the path leads through Salleri then rises toward Philim. As we leave Ekle Bhatti behind, elevation takes over  the climb continues to Lokpa. There, river traffic slows; the Syar meets the route, guiding us into Tsum’s first village. When darkness falls, movement returns – walking trails at dusk reveals how Lokpa hides within its quiet valley, said by locals to carry Padmasambhava’s ancient favor.

Day three kicks things off for the Manaslu Tsum Valley Trek. Following a bridge, the path begins a slow climb upward. It takes roughly three hours to arrive at Philim. Here, you will find a control point for permits along with basic services like banks and eateries. These places serve food – both familiar to Nepal and known abroad – for those staying overnight. After another hour, we reach Chisapani – the Bhotekoshi River stretches out before us in a clear sight. From here, it is just two hours more along a steady though mildly ascending trail to Lokpa, finishing today’s path.

Above us, the sky lights up – Himalchuli and Baudha rise early, sharp and gray. From Lokpa, moving toward Saradi Danda, the path stays quiet, soft underfoot. Now and then, thick foliage closes in, trees pressing close to the slope.

After no break for lunch along the way, we keep moving downward for roughly two hours over an uneven slope. Reaching Chumling means pausing at last – feet settled, belly filled.

Down the trail today feels light on effort, moving through mountain folds under open sky. A hanging bridge gets us started – then just a few hundred steps to Tanju, where a gompa waits with vistas stretching to Ganesh and Baudha peaks.

After that, movement shifts toward Upper Tsum Valley – taking about two hours on foot. Getting closer, massive slate cliffs at Chhekampar rise dramatically into view.

Now, picture us stepping into the Upper Tsum Valley – its charm and deep traditions unfolding around us. Moving forward, we go north, the path unfolding across broad, even ground. Beyond that stretch lies Lama Gaon, then Burji, each step revealing more of the scenery. Through the journey, villages appear quietly, green farms dot the slopes, while ancient stupas rise at intervals.

From there, we head to Milarepa’s Cave – sometimes called the Pigeon Cave – then continue on to Chi Phu. A short distance later, we arrive at the Nile. Therewe visit the Rachen Nunnery: it houses a little classroom that teaches kids what life ahead might hold.

Day two in Tsum Valley brings us a long hike – about two and a half hours – to Mu Gompa, perched high above the surrounding landscape. Through quiet trails we arrive at the monastery, where traditions come alive in ways both subtle and profound. Later, we make our way to a nunnery built nearly nine centuries ago, standing tall at 4,000 meters. From there, the skyline opens to reveal the majestic form of Ganesh Himal stretching across the western horizon.

Near the top of the Tsum Valley sits Mu Gompa, its stone walls housing more than two hundred young nuns who come to learn and grow. This place becomes their classroom, where daily routines mix with study and quiet devotion. Though travelers are welcome inside, sharing meals and rest, tonight we move back to the Nile tea house per our original plan.

Down we go, leaving behind those amazing days in the high Tsum Valley. After a full morning meal, the group moves along the streambed at Phurba, following the winding trail below Siyar Khola. Soon enough, we reach Rachen Gompa – a place held quiet by tradition, yet alive with meaning.

Now here we go, heading down toward those mountain ranges, passing over ground we’ve already been on. The landscape unfolds slowly as we move, pausing later at a place called Gho to eat. Once done, there is just enough time to look around before starting off once more toward where we mean to stay overnight.

Early light finds us tracing the path we took before, arriving once more at Chumling. Then comes the climb – a trail that rises steadily toward Gumba Lungdang, ending in quiet beauty after long steps.

Sunrise begins what might become the toughest stretch on foot so far. A dirt path leads upward through air thinner than before, far from lower elevations.

Hours past, beyond Laudang, we arrive at Kharka – wide open ground stretching out – leading onward toward Ganesh Himal Base Camp. High above, at 4,800 meters, the scene feels like something pulled from a dream. Around us rise giant mountains, close enough to touch. Once done there, we return along the same path toward our teahouse in Gumba Lungdang, staying there through the night.

Starting from the foot of the range, we move downward as the altitude drops. Early light finds us walking backward through the trails, returning toward Gho. From there, the path leads further along the Shiar River until we arrive at Dhumje.

Up top, the path climbs lightly under pines until reaching Gumba Lungdang. After hours, descent leads into Lokpa village, marking one more fulfilling stretch of our travel.

Downward the path goes, reaching the Budi Gandaki River early. From there it rises again, entering thick woods right away. Arriving at Deng soon – this village sits among tall bamboo trees, quiet and old.

After that, the path rises again to Bhiphedi – just a short stage before turning toward Ghap. There, we finish walking for now.

Following breakfast, we embarked on a journey through a thick forest, traversing multiple rivers.
We soon arrive at Namrung village, which signifies the beginning of the Nupri region, which is inhabited by Tibetan descendants. Before reaching the charming Tibetan village of Lho, where the rich culture and breathtaking views of the mountains enhance the experience, we continue past tiny Gombas

Before starting our day, we awaken to stunning views of Manaslu. Following breakfast, we travel a short distance to reach Shyala village, passing through potato fields and offering breathtaking views of Manaslu and Himalchuli in the distance.

Locals who depend on farming and animal husbandry live in the traditional homes that line the route. We reach Sama Gaon, where two rows of homes greet us after several hours of walking uphill. The village is clearly near the Tibetan border, and the monastery here has significant cultural value.

After weeks of hiking, today is a well-earned day to unwind. On our way to Kargyu Chholing Monastery, a 500-year-old site known for its elaborate woodwork, we encounter herds of yaks and dzopkyos as we explore the area. Here, we can admire the eight temple structures that depict Guru Rinpoche.

We can hike to Birendra Tal, which is next to the Manaslu Glacier, for additional adventure, or we can continue on toward the Manaslu Base Camp for stunning views of the mountains. Another choice is to go to Pungyen Nunnery and then explore the surrounding rivers and caverns before heading back to our lodge in Sama Gaon.

In the morning we head to the village of Samdo. We cross the Budi Gandaki River again. The walk, to the village of Samdo takes around 3 to 4 hours.

We see beautiful views and nice green fields where the people who live there grow their food. The village of Samdo is a place to see these things.

As we get close, to Samdo the path goes down slowly so it is not hard to walk. We do not have to walk a way today so we will eat lunch when we get to Samdo. This gives us a lot of time to rest and look around the village of Samdo. We can take our time. Really see what Samdo has to offer.

The trail from Samdo starts by going through pastures where yaks live and open fields. You will see beautiful views of the mountains around you like Mando and Larke Peak and also Manaslu. The Samdo trail goes up slowly so you have a lot of time to look at the mountains and fields, around you the trail has a lot of space to admire the mountains and the alpine scenery of the Samdo trail.

As you go higher the path gets really rocky. There is not much around. You will come across streams and you have to cross these using wooden bridges. The area has a lot of prayer flags, chortens and Mani walls which makes the spiritual atmosphere of the area really strong. The trail goes up the hill. It is not too bad if you walk at a steady pace the trail is okay to walk on because the Mani walls and prayer flags and chortens are all, around the trail.

You will finally get to Dharmasala. Dharmasala is also called Larke Phedi. This place is where people stay when they want to cross the Larke La Pass the day. The town of Dharmasala is really small. There is a tea house, in Dharmasala where you can eat and sleep.

The day starts early as we leave Dharmasala when the sun comes up.We begin walking. The trail goes up and up over rough ground and curvy paths.The trail gets really steep as we get closer to Larkya La Pass.As we walk we have to cross rocks that were made by glaciers and loose rocks that can be slippery.Sometimes we even see snow when we are really high up on the mountain.

The trail is pretty tough because of the snow and the loose rocks, at elevations of Larkya La Pass.As we go up we see amazing views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kang Guru and Annapurna II. When we get to Larkya La Pass, which’s one of the highest points of the trek we stop for a bit to look at the beautiful surroundings. Then we start going down. The path down is steep and rough so we have to be careful where we step.

After a while the path starts to change. We see alpine landscapes with lots of shrubs and meadows. The views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kang Guru and Annapurna II are still really beautiful as we walk through these landscapes. As we get close to Bhimthang, the scenery around us changes. We see lots of rhododendron and pine trees. The Bhimthang scenery is really beautiful with streams and green pastures. This is a place to rest after our exciting journey, to Bhimthang.

The trip from Bhimthang to Tilje is really beautiful. You walk through forests and see rivers and old villages that are very pretty.When you start going down from Bhimthang to Tilje you go through forests that have pine and rhododendron trees. This is a change, from what you saw before.We are walking past Yak Kharka. The mountain views are really beautiful. We see a lot of yaks eating grass in the meadows.We follow the Dudh Khola River. The trail takes us over streams. We cross these streams on bridges. This is very exciting.

The forest is getting thicker with trees like rhododendron and pine and oak. We are arriving at Gho Village. It is a quiet place. We can rest here. Have a nice hot meal.From Gho Village the trail goes through fields, with terraces. These fields lead us to Tilje. Tilje is a village. It has a lot of teahouses where people’re very friendly.

We begin our trip back with a drive from Tilje to Besishar. This drive is really pretty because we pass through scenery and old villages.

From Besishar we go to Kathmandu. The Marsyangdi and Trishuli rivers are, along the way. We follow the rivers as we drive to Kathmandu. The roads are windy. Follow the riverbanks of the Marsyangdi and Trishuli.

We have been driving for a time and now we are finally, in Kathmandu. You can relax in Kathmandu. Have a nice time staying in a place that has everything you need. You will have to pay for the things you want to use in Kathmandu